Well this morning the allergic community has been up in arms at recent coverage of the new EU regulations about food allergens.
You can read the whole article here in the Telegraph, “EU chefs attack new EU regulations in allergens in food”.
In December last year a new law made it necessary for anyone selling food prepared on the premises from small cafes, restaurants and pubs to schools and other institutions and catering firms to understand where allergens may be present in their food either by design or by cross contamination and then to communicate that in writing or verbally.
For those of us with allergies, many of us with multiple allergies, this could make a huge difference to our quality of life.
This is my response to all 100 of you lucky so and so’s. Most of whom can eat and cook what you want to, whenever you want to. So listen up Telegraph and Albert Roux, Mark Hix and Thomasina Miers, the founder of Wahaca.
Now you all have every right to make whatever comments you want about the new regulations and have apparently made your grievances known by writing to The Telegraph in droves saying exactly what you think but I think you’ve all got your creative wires a bit crossed.
You say that the new regs are…
…hurting “spontaneity, creativity and innovation”
Really? If you don’t want to cater for me, as an allergic diner, you don’t have to. I’m quite happy to eat elsewhere. There are plenty of restaurants who are already catering very well for allergic diners.
You carry on. You add butter to every dish and fill your kitchens with allergens to the rafters.
I completely get what you’re all saying, but I don’t agree. It’s just moaning and whining.
All you have to do is carry on regardless but make damn sure that you communicate to anyone asking for information that none of your food is safe.
The article also says, “They must display information on 14 allergens including rare allergies such as mustard seeds and Lupin, or face fines of up to £5,000 for any infraction of the rules.”
Well actually the regulations require you to know, and communicate. This can be done verbally but that does give quite a huge margin for error and does need to written down somewhere for training purposes.
But I’m assuming you do know what goes into your food? You don’t just hurl in random ingredients. Oh maybe you do. Maybe that is what creativity and flare is all about. Shut your eyes, feel about for something and shove it in the pot. I know I’m being slightly childish here but this makes me mad.
I know there is a lot of thought going on as to how flavours work and how a good meal is created.
You also say that
these new allergen regulations will cost the restaurant industry £200 million a year
What an incredible figure! It’s just the usual nonsense, pick a number out of the air and create a stir because most people read stuff and believe it. I’d love to know how you arrived at this amount of money.
My advice to you is carry on as you are. Just take the lazy route as many others will.
Keep your menu as it is and nurture your flare and creativity to your heart’s content.
But take a look at what some of your competitors are doing and you will realise that they have quietly been getting to grips with these regulations. Did you know they’ve actually been on their way for two years now? Many of the actual Top Chefs and other smaller establishments already have separate, much shorter menus for allergic diners.
We’re not asking for every dish to be completely free from allergens.
I suggest you go and actually read the regulations and understand what they mean to you.
And if you don’t want allergic diners to cramp your style then make absolutely certain that all your staff know this and can tell anyone who asks.
The fact that you cannot try to offer just one dish that might be free from even one allergen shows a complete lack of understanding, empathy, care and if I’m honest, creativity.
I’m sure you would be devastated if a dish you prepared made people ill due to poor food hygiene.
So why can’t you make the very simple connection here. Allergens make a small number of the population really sick and in some cases, people die from anaphylaxis from food they’ve eaten.
If you prepared a meal for someone, knowing they had an allergy, and didn’t understand the dish and in so doing, gave them a meal that made them so ill they died from anaphylaxis, how would you feel?
I don’t think you’d ever get over that if you thought you could have avoided it by listening and understanding.
Please just promise me one thing – that you will read the regulations, learn what they mean, what the 14 allergens are and tell your customers if these are or may be present in your food
This is all I ask. And if you don’t know, admit that. I’d rather know that the chef’s have swapped shifts and you can’t guarantee something is safe. I’ll choose something else. I will be guided by you as to what dish is easiest for you to prepare.
And if you restaurant is not safe, I’m quite happy to eat before I go out, I often take my own food etc. I will always check before going to any restaurant. I will never just turn up without finding out whether my allergens can be catered for.
I take most of the risk. I have to weigh up what I’m told on the phone, how the chef reacts, what food is offered to me. I have to remain vigilant at all times.
It’s a bureaucratic nightmare
The article focuses on the difficulty of having to audit the whole menu and list where allergens are present. You don’t have to do this. Get your facts straight! Obviously if you wanted to make it easy for your diners, your staff etc. then updating menus with allergens present would be one way of doing it.
But you don’t have to do this. You are all making so much more of these new regulations than you need to.
If you can tell me something is OK, that’s fine with me. But if it’s not written down how does anyone remember the allergens present?
Many establishments will highlight a few dishes that are suitable and steer diners towards these safer meals that they can handle creating.
Don’t make this hard for yourselves.
You don’t have to recreate the wheel. It’s really not that hard. McDonald’s, Pizza Hut and many other chain restaurants have had allergen bible’s now for years. I can see how that will not always work in a fine dining restaurant or small bistro where a menu might change regularly.
So if you don’t want to cater for people with allergens, just tell us. We’ll all go somewhere else.
Miss Miers, who won BBC cookery competition Masterchef in 2005, said: “It is a total fiasco and in my view is the responsibility of the allergee to ask, no the restaurateurs to list. I had a severe allergy for 6 years so coming at it from both sides of the fence.”
First of all, I’m not sure allergee is a real word but we get what you mean. And I agree, it is totally my responsibility as the ‘allergee’ to ask and I always advise everyone with allergies to phone ahead, never just turn up somewhere unannounced. It’s a dangerous game when it comes to eating out with allergies.
But for this to work there must be some responsibility on the restaurant, not necessarily to list but to communicate in a sensible and sensitive way.
And to Miss Miers, who says she had ‘a severe allergy for 6 years’, I must say you’re lucky. Did your allergy just go away? Or was it in fact an intolerance? or were you miraculously cured? Did you find it hard to eat out with your allergy? What were you allergic to? or should this actually read, I have had a severe allergy for 6 years? Either way you should be in a great position to understand these regulations and find a way that your restaurant can work with them.
And finally, to ‘No Clue Prue’
Dear Prue Leith
As the spokesperson for this campaign you really did get quite a bit of coverage on most radio stations but honestly, listening just made me so angry.
You have such a great position to make positive change and yet your attitude to allergies beggars belief. The things you said on the radio will only serve to make eating for those with allergies harder, more dangerous and more of a challenge.
You said, and I quote, “most of these so called allergies don’t even make people that sick…”
This is such an irresponsible thing to say. It may be your opinion but I can assure you that my allergies are very VERY real. I have had many full on anaphylactic reactions resulting in A&E admission. Most of them have happened after eating out, after asking for a safe meal and being given something that either contained my allergen or had cross contamination.
Needless to say I am very careful where I eat now.
But why should I never eat out again and stay at home?
I think this happens because of the widely held belief that we are making this up, that allergies are all in our heads, that the reaction can’t be that bad anyway.
I suggest you read the regulations, learn what the 14 allergens are and also find out what anaphylaxis really is because by the sound of it you have no idea.
To suggest this issue is not important just because some people say they have an allergy and then eat the very same food later on is irrelevant. Keep all your customers safe and you are doing a great service to those with true life threatening allergies. Every company has customers who waste their time, that’s just life. But some of us do have a true allergy.
Change is needed
No one likes change.
No one, least of all it seems, chefs, being told what they can and cannot do or cook.
Can we not move away from this boring argument about your flare and creativity being stifled and instead put it to good use?
I challenge you all to create just one dish that doesn’t contain allergens. Just one.
So that your allergic diners can choose that.
It is entirely possible and could be very simple.
Then take a look at what your competitors are doing. How are they handling these new regulations?
I think you’ll find that most allergic diners don’t want you to restrict every dish and stifle your creativity. We’re quite used to sitting next to people enjoying amazing food while we enjoy something simple, safe and allergen free. That is the price we pay for daring to eat out and I am happy if that is all that’s available.
But when someone is prepared to go the extra mile and make my experience just as enjoyable as my non allergic friends it is a truly memorable experience.
I have had some amazing experiences recently at so many places, including most recently Brasserie Blanc and The Alford Arms, to name just a few.
These guys can do it. They all have simple menus for the allergic diner. These meals and these meals alone are made to the same structure and preparation. The rest of your whole menu can be dedicated to your much loved creativity and flare.
I will happily go somewhere else with my crowd of greedy, champagne and wine drinking friends.
Unlike you they do care about the fact that it is so hard for me to integrate and eat out, they want me to be with them so I chose where we go.
Remember that – the allergic diner chooses. We have the power and we will not stay at home. So what would you say to me if I phoned your restaurant?
If I told you I was severely allergic to all nuts, all dairy (I mean cow, goat and sheep here not eggs), wheat, celery, tomato and soya. I’m guessing you’d recoil in horror. I truly am quite probably, every chefs worst nightmare.
But turn that on its head and you’ll see that I CAN eat all meat, all fish, all poultry, all vegetables (well nearly) , all fruit and all grains apart from wheat. I can eat herbs, spices and oils (just not nut oils) and I am really not that fussy.
So what are you going to do about it?
You can read what Michelle Berridale-Johnson, the brains behind the new FreeFrom Eating out Awards thinks about this recent article here, “Top chefs attack EU regulations, again…”
Alex Gazzola, health journalist says, The Food sensitive community: not fair game for political point scoring.
Dairy free Baby and Me shared, 100 chefs – why I’m not bovvered
My radio interview about the allergen regulations
Within hours of sharing this blog, BBC Radio 5 Live contacted me to ask me if I would join the Phil Williams show that evening so of course agreed.
A huge thanks to Radio 5 Live, Phil Williams et al for giving me the chance to put across the allergic diner’s perspective. We heard a lot from #noclueprue so it was about time we had our say.
If you’d have asked me over breakfast that morning what my day had in store I would not have predicted this!
The campaign has sparked so much anger and also positivity amongst the allergy community. Twitter has been awash with tweets and blogs about the subject.
We all agree, before any of you go on and on with your moaning, get your facts straight and if you would like to discuss this with a real allergic diner I’m right here. Just leave a comment; I would love to debate this with you.
I bet none of you will… now there’s a challenge…
And finally, in the words of one my favourite celebrity chefs Delia Smith.
WHERE ARE YOU? LET’S BE HAVING YOU!
Because all the 100 chefs have gone very quiet since this news broke! Come on chefs – tell us what you all think. Do you agree with the 100 chefs or do you have another point of view? Join in the debate below…
Michelle Berriedale-Johnson says
Hear, hear!! Well said, Ruth – agree with every word! How great if we could actually get a chef forum together to discuss what the regulations actually mean who those who actually know – as opposed to those who are making a whole load of incorrect assumptions!!
Ruth says
If we could just get a few of them together to talk them properly that would be amazing. I bet if I walked into their restaurants they would be as nice as pie. Who do you think is ring leading this campaign? They all just follow without really getting their facts straight and The Telegraph are as bad as the Sun. The Editor or the Sun is tweeting about this too, saying it’s great they all SLAMMED the regs. They are all idiots, the lot of them. I challenge them to respond to me on twitter or comment here. They won’t though. They’re just cowards who probably don’t have much creativity between them.
Liz Allan says
Good lass, fantastic post Ruth – you tell them! It’s about time chefs stopped thinking that anyone is trying to stifle their creativity. Look at all the fantastic food which some chefs make without the Top14 allergens – it’s certainly do-able!
There are loads of “other” ingredients out there which taste fabulous but chefs have got so used to the ones they use that they’ve forgotten to look at developing dishes with new and exciting ingredients – isn’t that what creativity is all about?
Come on chefs, get your acts together – there are lots who are embracing the new law , why stay in the dark ages?
Ruth says
Thanks Liz and hear hear. I think you’re right. They just can’t be arsed to think about allergens and don’t want the hassle. Did you hear Prue Leith waffling about it on the radio? I must listen again as I only caught the end. She doesn’t have a clue what she’s talking about. She was going on about all the hundreds of things people are allergic to. Yes Prue but if you read the regulations you would know this applies to just the top 14. Doubt she even knows what all 14 allergens are. And interestingly, the only place I have ever had food poisoning that put me in hospital was a Leith’s catering place. Thanks Prue for the campylobacter. That was a lovely 2 weeks in hospital and 2 more off work.
Sue Clarke says
Well said Ruth,
I wonder if I call up the Telegraph if they’ll give me the complete list of every restaurant who put their names to this.
Then I can be absolutely sure that I, along with my family and friends don’t visit their restaurants, because you are absolutely right, the allergic person chooses where we go!
MalSannie says
That is great thanks for the list, luckily none that I frequent but I’ll be sure to avoid in the future! Wahaca was on my list of ‘must do’ list – now no longer.
Ruth says
Thanks Sue, I should have been working but I just had to write this. I was so cross. The least we can do is boycott the 100, but having looked at the list they are mostly small independent restaurants. I wonder if they all really know what this campaign and the regulations are really all about.
Micki says
Hee hee, I love it when you rant, Ruth. Good on you! Sadly, I gave up eating out many years ago because of poor standards of communication. Once, a very famous chef served me an allergen despite having assured me the meal was free from it – and despite me questioning it three times simply because it tasted too good to be true! I was ill before I even got to the car park to go home. To his credit, he took it very seriously and changed the kitchen communications accordingly. He begged me to go back and let him cook for me personally. I never did. Allergic diners will vote with their feet, take note chefs…! (Interestingly, I note he is not on the signatories list either…so good on him, some of the message struck home then – he was mortified and probably scared I’d sue him!)
Ruth says
I love it when I rant too Mikki, it feels so good to let off steam. And I can’t blame you for not eating out now, but I just feel I don’t want that. I want to eat out with my friends. I’ve been a hermit for so long and actually, I have found some amazing places which are quite safe for me. I only need a few places so these 100 and all the rest who don’t welcome us just won’t get our money. Hopefully, even though all this has been a horrid news campaign it will all help with awarness.
Sarah Wathan says
This letter has made me angry, my allergies are not covered by the new legislation but I think its great news. I accept that there are many restaurants that I can not eat at due to their use of food colours but on the other hand there are so many great restaurants where I can eat. I bet many of these chefs do not have to cope with having a food allergy and so have not had to face all the issues surrounding having an allergy. My local Italian cafe regularly change their chalkboards, which act as their menus, andd all boards say possible allergens as well as stating if you need more information please ask. If a small two person cafe can manage it so can these larger places. in my opinion it is simply down to the snob affect they wish to create with the appearance of they menu.
Ruth says
I agree, many pubs, cafes and restaurants have been quietly getting to grips with this. Any chef worth knowing will see it as a challenge and wish all diners to enjoy a meal NOT publicly declare that our allergies are not that bad really and we should stay at home. Most of us do stay at home because of just this kind of attitude. What are you allergic to Sarah? For me it is an embarrassingly long list, including nuts, dairy, soya, wheat, celery and tomato. Surprisingly many places can cope and there is always steak! and ham egg and chips
Sarah Wathan says
I’m allergic to a long list of artifical colours, which means not just food but certain tablets/medicines are no go. Luckily some of the colours I’m allergic to are getting banned but I still get caught out from time to time and find colours in the most unexpected things like some chocolates.
Nat says
Nice work Ruth, great post!! It is absolutely infuriating that people still ‘don’t get it!’.
How hard is it to communicate what is used to create a dish?! I create and write numerous recipes for clients each month, ALL are allergen safe. I know exactly what I use, and how much! How can a trained, professional chef not be able to adhere to this?
I think the fundamental bit that has been missed by ALL the chefs involved…..they’re not being asked to avoid the allergens, they merely have to state if they use them! We all have to substitute them on a daily basis, that’s far harder! If we can do it, why on earth can’t they simply write ingredients down, never mind sub them!!
And as to the ‘I had an allergy for 6 years’….. Surely that should make you acutely aware of the struggles faced when eating out??!! *gets off soap box*
Ruth says
Hi Nat, seems my blog just lost me my comment, I wrote a lovely long reply. Now it’s late but thanks for your comment. And please don’t get off your soap box – you’re great. As are all the allergy community. This campaign may have been annoying but it has brought us all together and I don’t think Prue Leith has done them any favours really. She didn’t have a clue what she was talking about. Thomasina seems very unhelpful too, especially with previous allergy experience. Let’s keep on raising awareness.
Heth says
Thanks Ruth at last maybe we wont be treated as second class citizens.My total dairy / lactose allergy has accompanied me to eateries for 20 years and most ‘chefs’ have little or no idea what goes into their food. I would love to eat the same as everyone else but for all these years sometimes I have had to make do with salad and jelly or fruit salad for dessert. There are companys now who do produce dairy free food, Alpro, Swedish Glace
Why in heaven name cant they be used in resturants. These are als gluten free
Ruth says
I know Heth, I feel your pain. FRUIT SALAD IS NOT A PUDDING!
Things will get better and there are some amazing places out there. Read some of the restaurant reviews on here and see if there is anywhere near you that you could visit. Where do you live? I might know somewhere that would provide something other than a fruit salad.
Ingrid Eissfeldt says
At Artisan Bread Organic – we get it – our customers get it – but sadly chefs are struggling to ‘get it’ on the whole. Apart from a few. Try Tibits Restaurant, off Regents Street. They get it! In the future people will be eating to suit their Genotype – so chefs will have to evolve from the dark ages and use their skills to create food that people want to eat rather than cooking to a classic recipe.
Ruth says
Sounds FANTASTIC Ingrid, thanks so much. I am always looking for places in London. I will definitely be trying that out. I think it’s a whole bigger picture too. As a nation over a third of the UK is obese. That is completely shocking. Restaurants MUST look at all the food they produce to also help address this obesity epidemic. We do need healthier, simpler, natural, organic food. The establishments that can address this in a cost effective way will be doing the whole nation a favour and in turn – us allergic types will find choosing much easier. How about nutritional values and calories on menus? It won’t be long till we see that. In five years time we will look back at this nonsense and laugh. Vegetarian options is now the norm and remember how bad a time they had? That’s not even a necessity it’s a lifestyle choice. It will get better. Thanks for you comment and your amazing bread and cakes.